Choosing and packing photography equipment for a holiday – Lenses

11318362116_100-5927.jpgWhen you’re packing photography equipment for a holiday, it’s hard to decide what to take. You want to take enough to get good photos, but not so much that it weighs you down or takes up too much space in your luggage.
If you’re going on a holiday with a specific photographic intent in mind, such as safari, then its relatively easy to decide what lenses to take. But if you’re going on a standard holiday to the city or country, where you’ll likely come across a multitude of different photographic situations, it can be hard to decide which lenses to take, and which to leave at home.
This article covers a few different options you may want to consider when deciding which lenses you should take to use with your digital SLR camera on holiday.
Lightweight creative – Small prime lens
For the ultimate in terms of traveling light with a Digital SLR camera, consider bringing just a single prime (fixed focal length) lens, e.g.

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Weddings are the memories of a lifetime and ought to be captured properly. Wedding photographs mean a lot to the people involved and they would definitely want the pictures being taken with a lot of clarity for future viewing. Experienced wedding photographers with the right equipment will do the needful and ensure some highly emotional and nostalgic pictures being taken, which can be recalled fondly in the future. If you are having it done by somebody close, then the camera ought to be right. Photography Equipments for Professionals

Mentioned below, are various type of photography equipment, and their uses according to level and kind of photography.
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This article explores possible Canon lens choices for shooting in low light weddings or receptions. It provides two options in shooting with primes or zoom lens to ensure that you have optimal picture quality and that your pictures are properly exposed in low light.24mm, 35mm, 50mm, or 85mm. Although you may miss the convenience of a zoom lens, remember that you can still ‘zoom with your feet’ when using a prime lens.
However, when using a single prime lens, the purpose should not really be to try and get the same shots as you would when using a zoom lens. Instead, it should make you think differently, and you should try to take shots using the fixed focal length to your advantage.
If you do decide to try and push your creativity by shooting with only a single focal length, I would recommend that you try this out before you go on holiday. This way you can see what sort of shots work with that particular lens, and which sorts of shots don’t, before you leave.
Besides forcing you to challenge your creativity, shooting with a single prime lens has other benefits:

Prime lenses are typically smaller than zoom lenses.
With no lens changes you shouldn’t have to worry about your camera sensor getting dirty.
Prime lenses typically have fast maximum apertures, e.g. f/1.4. This enables you to take shallow focus shots that you can’t get with slower zoom lenses.

The obvious disadvantage is that there will be some shots you might want to make but just can’t because you don’t have the right focal length and ‘zooming with your feet’ is not possible. e.g. If you bring a 50mm prime lens you won’t be able to take a wide-angle shot of your hotel room.
Lightweight convenient – Walk around (Medium wide – medium telephoto) zoom
For convenience it’s hard to beat a walk around zoom lens. These are available in quite a large range of focal lengths, some more modest e.g. 24-70mm (for a full frame DSLR) or 17-50mm (for a APS-C DSLR), or some quite extreme (known as ‘superzooms’), e.g. 28-300mm (for a full frame DSLR) or 18-200mm (for a APS-C DSLR).
Generally the shorter the zoom range, the higher the quality of image the lens will produce, but you loose the convenience of having the longer zoom.
These lenses go from a medium wide angle to a medium telephoto, allowing you to capture most things from city streets, to portraits, to larger wildlife. There may still be some situations where you find you want a wider or longer focal length than your lens, but a walk around lens should cover most situations you come across.
Although convenient, these lenses tend to have a smaller maximum aperture than prime lenses. This means they are not quite as suited for low light photography (though with today’s high ISO capable cameras this is less of a concern than it used to be).
A walk around zoom lens will likely produce worse image quality than a prime lens, but the quality should still be plenty enough for most print sizes.
Heavyweight all bases covered – Walk around zoom + wide angle zoom + telephoto zoom + (optional) normal prime
If you want to cover virtually any situation you come across, the above selection of lenses should do well. It won’t cover every single situation, to do that you’d need to bring so many lenses you’d need a Sherpa to lug them around for you. But these lenses will cover the large majority of photographic opportunities you’re likely to come across, without you having to be a body builder to carry them.
The walk around zoom, as discussed above, will probably be your primary lens, and cover most situations.
A wide angle zoom lens, such as a 10-20mm, 12-24mm, 14-24mm, 16-35mm, or 17-40mm, will prove great for getting in the vastness of a beautiful country scene, city square, or bustling market. The super wide angles of these lenses can also be used to great creative effect, emphasizing objects in the foreground and giving a great sense of perspective.
The wide angle zoom lens will also come in useful in tight spots where you want to get in an entire scene, but can’t move any further back, for example a small shopping alley.
A telephoto zoom, such as a 70-200mm or 70-300mm lens will come in useful for taking photos of things in the distance, or wildlife. They are also useful for picking out details higher up on buildings, and can make reasonable portrait lenses as well. You probably won’t need the reach of a telephoto zoom lens very often, but it’s nice to have it when you need it.
If you are using a superzoom lens (e.g. 18-200mm or 28-300mm) for your walk around lens, then you may decide not to have the extra weight of a telephoto zoom. But a smaller focal length range walk around lens (e.g. 17-50mm or 24-70mm) and a telephoto zoom lens will provide superior image quality compared to a superzoom.
To round off your kit, you may want to consider adding a normal (e.g. 50mm) fast aperture (e.g. f/1.4) prime lens. Although it will probably double-up on part of the focal length covered by the walk around lens, the faster aperture of the prime lens makes it more suitable for portraits and photos where you want to use shallow depth of field.
This kit will be quite a bit heavier than a single lens, but should fit in a smallish bag without too much trouble. And it gives you added flexibility compared to just using a single lens.
Medium-weight most bases covered – wide angle prime + normal prime + medium telephoto prime
If you like your sharp and fast prime lenses, try bringing a wide angle prime e.g. 14mm, 21mm, or 24mm, a normal prime, e.g. 35mm or 50mm, and a medium telephoto prime, e.g. 85mm or 135mm.
Not quite as convenient as a selection of zoom lenses, you’ll have to ‘zoom with your feet’, but a selection of prime lenses will give you the ultimate in image quality. The wide aperture of prime lenses (particularly the 50mm and 85mm lenses) also allow you to take advantage of the shallow depth of field that slower zooms can’t match.
Depending on the aperture of your prime lenses, if they are fast e.g. f/1.8 – f/2.8 you should find they take up less room than the equivalent zoom lenses. If you have superfast prime lenses e.g. f/1.2 – f/1.4 then they may be as heavy or heavier than zoom lenses covering the same focal lengths, but then of course, zoom lenses can’t match those superfast apertures.
The main problem with using only a selection of prime lenses is that you can’t cover the telephoto end very well unless you don’t mind the large and heavy telephoto primes. You probably don’t want to be carrying one of these around with you on holiday, unless maybe you are visiting a zoo or wildlife reserve.
I would suggest that 85mm or 135mm will probably be enough to cover most situations where you want a longer focal length. You may miss some shots where a longer focal length is needed, but you will also be able to get some shots in other situations that a zoom would miss (e.g. very low light or very shallow depth of field).
Hopefully the above has given you some ideas of what lenses to take on holiday with you. If you’d like to know more about picking and packing photography equipment for a holiday, please see Choosing and packing photography equipment for a holiday.

Photography Equipment Needed To Create A Portfolio

01318361840_ecb2.jpgA lot of people from teenagers to adults like to capture images and collect them. Photography is most often used as a hobby for non-professional photographers because it’s fun. If you are one of those people who adore photography, I encourage you to make your own portfolio. You only need to have few tools which will be discussed on the following paragraphs.

The first and most important tool you need to have to make a portfolio is of course a digital camera. However, do not just use any digital camera. You must get the best digital camera you can afford to buy. A camera that has high quality features is a great choice to produce good pictures. Generally, the best brands of digital camera you can have are those that let you download images in an instant.

Photo editing software allows you to enhance any captured pictures. This is another important photography tool you need to have in creating portfolio. There are various programs available that let everyone resize, crop, edit and improve images which you can download onto your computer. Consider this matter since it’s a lot of fun updating and designing pictures with photo editing software.

There are also programs that consist of templates which you can use for scrapbooking. If you like to make your photos look more stylish and original, download some of the available software where you can select thousands of cool photo templates. Besides, making a portfolio is similar to scrapbooking in which you can make designs of anything you want.

The last equipment you need to have is a photo printer. Printing all the photos you capture must be the next thing to do after editing and improving the images. Make sure you use photo dye ink which is used in inkjet printers to produce great and high-quality printed photos.

Create your very own portfolio using these photography tools. Besides, you have the freedom on what subject to capture, what design to choose and how you make a great photo album.

Inside Product Photography Advice: Photographing Camera Equipment

21318362106_wp-000065.jpgAn overlooked area within the field of product photography is the camera itself. Camera equipment and photography equipment poses a unique challenge to the product photographer, which is yet another reason why it’s safer not to attempt your catalogue photography in house, relying on the services of a professional photography studio instead.
So what is it that makes cameras and camera equipment so challenging when it comes to photography? There are three main issues which need to be considered. The first issue is that the people who are likely to be looking at your photographs of cameras are likely to be camera enthusiasts, and therefore enthusiastic about quality photography. If the images you’re using are of poor quality then this doesn’t look inspiring, and is unlikely to appeal to image conscious consumers.
Having high quality photographic images is always important no matter what you’re selling and no matter to whom you’re marketing it.

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The second issue that needs to be considered when thinking about camera product photography is that most items of equipment tend to be both dark and detailed. If you look at most medium to high end digital and SLR cameras they tend to be black almost all over. Not only this but there tends to be quite a few buttons, and many of these are black too. This poses a problem, because it can be very difficult to take a photograph of a dark, detailed object and manage to both capture the detail, and make the product look three dimensional. Too many amateur photographs of cameras and similar products either lose the detail, or make the camera seem flat, cheap and uninteresting.
The third area of concern relates to reflections, because there are one or two areas of the camera which are likely to reflect light or to reflect what’s in the room or studio. The two most obvious examples here include the lens, and any digital preview screen on the reverse of the camera. The lens doesn’t tend to pose a problem as far as reflecting the studio is concerned, because what will generally be seen are simply light circles. But these are important, and by using coloured lights, appropriately angled lighting and the right exposure it’s possible to really make the lens stand out. This is important because often the lens is the only real element of colour, and by having a glowing lens with light circles it helps to add a great deal of depth to the image as well as providing a focal point.
The screen at the back poses a different problem though. By switching this off you lose a potential area of colour and interest, and you also pose the risk of having the photographer and studio reflected in the screen, which doesn’t look very professional. Switching the camera on though and having an image on the screen doesn’t always work, as the quality will appear greatly reduced. It’s generally best to use post production editing to superimpose an image onto the area where the screen is on the camera, although this has to be done very carefully indeed in order to make it look natural. Again, any keen camera enthusiast will certainly spot a doctored image, and this will beg many questions as far as the authenticity and honesty of the rest of the image is concerned.
So when it comes to product photography for cameras and photographic equipment it really is far better to make use of a professional photographer and studio, otherwise you could find your business very underexposed.